Your fly rod is perhaps your single most important piece of fly fishing equipment. Your rod powers the fly line to the target and can make or break landing a big fish. A quality fly rod makes the difference between being able to fish all day without exhausting you.
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In other words, the right fly rod for you makes fly fishing an enjoyable experience rather than a nightmare.
A fly rod should balance with the fly line and the fly reel. When you hold the fly rod with your hand on the cork grip and hold it level, you should feel that balance. Not too much weight on the butt end of the rod or too much at the tip end. If you feel either of these characteristics, check with a professional to see if the size of the reel loaded with line and backing is too large or too small.
The best way to actually choose fly rods, lines and reels is to put an outfit together. Then cast the fly line. Most quality fly fishing shops have a casting area where you can try casting the rod.
Click on image to enlarge.
Fly Rod Action - is the terminology used to describe how a rod reacts under loading by the line.
A medium slow action
will load the rod almost into the butt section. Generally these rods are a gentle cast with more forgiveness of casting mistakes than a fast action rod.
A medium action
will use the middle of the rod as the main part for developing energy to shoot the line to the target.
A fast action
uses the tip section for the main part of the energy development process.
A beginning fly fisherman should choose a fly rod with a medium slow or medium action for best casting results. An intermediate to advanced fly fisherman may use a medium or a fast action fly rod depending on the waters and species they are fishing for.
Fast action rods These are stiffer and bend more in the upper third. This allows for longer casts, and crisper casts as well, which helps in windy conditions. Besides quick, tight-casting strokes, fast-action rods require minimal changes in rod angles to keep this stroke Meduim-action Sometimes called moderate-action, these rods fall in the middle, flexing more in the upper half of the rod They are more limber and offer a good choice for beginners since they are easier to use and can handle many fishing conditions Slow-action These rods are the least stiff so they bend more uniformly throughout the rod. This makes casting more accurate, a plus in close ranges and in making delicate presentations of your fly. The downside is the adjustments needed in your casting technique if you switch flies.
A rod's weight and length should be matched to the weight of your line.
To make this easier, rod manufacturers determine the best match based on power and stiffness.
For example, a "6-weight rod" is designed to cast a 6-weight fly line. Many times, this is describes as #6/9', or a 6-weight, 9-foot rod.
Line weights range from 1 to 15. Generally speaking, the lower line weights are for smaller flies and fish,
while the higher line weights are for heavier flies and fish.
Here's a brief rundown:
1- to 3-weight: For making delicate presentations with small dry flies and nymph, especially designed for trout or panfish on small to moderate-sized waters
4- to 6-weight: This is also very appropriate for trout, panfish and small bass. A 4-weight is perfect for delicacy and finesse, while a 6-weight works best on big waters or in windy conditions. The middle weight - 5 - is the most versatile for trout whether you want finesse on spring-fed creeks or bigger, wider rivers.
7- to 8-weight: A 7-weight provides the extra power needed to land smallmouth bass or steelhead, and bigger trout found in rivers and reservoirs. These weights also work well with bigger flies and bass bugs. Consider these for steelhead, redfish, snook or light salmon fishing.
9- to 10-weight: Large flies for catching salmon and pike require a heavier weight line; these weights also work in saltwater for medium-sized fish
11-weight and up: If you want go after the big boys - tarpon, tuna and billfish - you need these heavier weights.
Rod lengths give you the desired casting action. In general, longer rods give more action while shorter rods are geared for tight situations such as narrow streams.
Here are some guidelines:
Less than 8': These are considered short rods and are perfect for fishing in tight areas - narrow streams with overhanging trees or small ponds with lots of brush.
8' - 9': These lengths are good fits for trout and bass fishing. The longer length will give you more casting range and should improve your line control.
9' and longer: Designed for long casts and better ability to manage line, these longer rods are best for open waters, such as bonefish flats, saltwater bays and big salmon rivers.
Plan on fishing from a float tube? Then consider a 9- or 10-foot rod to help with casting.
Fly fishing rods come in cheaper models, good and premium.
This how to tell them apart.
Not including the main stripping guide next to the cork handle,
Premium fly rods will generally have 1 guide for approximately each foot of rod not counting the main stripping guide. Premium fly rods may have two stripping guides but the second one is counted in the guide count. For example, the nine-foot premium fly rod pictured has a total of ten guides not including the main stripping guide.
As the rod length increases so should the number of guides. Remember the rule of 1 guide for approximately each 1 foot of rod length.
A good model fly rod will generally have 1 less guide than the premium models. For the nine foot model shown here, a good rod would have nine guides not counting the main stripping guide.
A cheaper model fly rod will generally have fewer guides not including the stripping guide. For example, a cheap nine-foot fly rod may have only eight guides not including the main stripping guide.
These less expensive fly rods will not cast long lengths of line as easily as premium fly rods will. Think about it. The guides carry the line as it shoots forward toward the target.
With less guides on the fly fishing rod, the line will tend to develop a little belly between the guides. With any belly in the line between guides, a lot of forward line motion and energy is lost. Thus, a 60-foot cast with a 12-foot leader is more difficult using a cheap fly rod than with a premium rod.